How can we solve our skin problem?
First, we need to know what hydrolipid layer means and why it is important.
To understand this, I must first tell you that the skin is made up 3 main layers.
We can imagine our skin as a 3-story building in such a way that this building is 3-story moving toward the interior of the earth. From the outside, we only see the roof of the building. The top of the building is the stratum corneum, from here we go to the minus first level, the Epidermis, then from here to the minus 2nd level, the Dermis, and from there to the minus 3rd level, which is the Subcutis.
The layers of the skin:
- Epidermis
- Dermis
- Subcutis
On top of the stratum corneum is the hydrolipid layer, which is very important for skin health.
The fatty phase of this hydrolipid layer is provided by wax-like substances and sebum produced by the sebaceous gland. Its aqueous phase is provided by our sweat and water-binding factors.
The fatty phase of the skin emulsion provides the skin’s lipoid mantle with the fatty acids it contains. The carboxylic acids in sweat form the skin’s acid mantle. Together, the lipoid mantle and the acid mantle serve to protect the body. This protects our skin against harmful substances from the environment and prevents too much moisture from evaporating from the skin.
Since oil and water cannot mix well, our skin also produces its own emulsifying substance, and this is ceramide.
So:
Fats / oils + sweat / moisture binding factors + ceramide = skin surface emulsion (hydrolipid layer)
The quantity and quality of these 3 factors also determine our skin type.
In normal skin, all three factors are in balance. In other words, fats/oils and moisture are in balance, and an adequate amount of ceramide ensures proper mixing. Thanks to this, the skin is soft, velvety to the touch and healthy.
Oily skin produces too much sebum. It can be balanced by replacing the missing moisture. Oily skin is almost always dehydrated. In such a case, we need a light moisturizing cream.
Dry skin can lack two things:
– Fats / oils
– Ceramide
There is nothing here to bind the excess water, and the water evaporates from the surface of the skin, which is why we feel that our skin is tightening. Dry skin requires oilier creams. The role of ceramide is to close the gap between the cells, i.e. together with the skin cells, they help lock moisture into the skin, so the skin does not become dehydrated or dry. So ceramide is extremely important for skin health.
If you have tight, dry, itchy skin, the solution is a ceramide-containing cream.
Studies have shown that by the time we are 30-40 years old, we lose 40% of our skin’s ceramide content. This is why we feel increasingly dehydrated or dry on our skin.
If we want to solve our skin problem, we have to work with skin-identical active ingredients. The active ingredients in the cream should be the most similar to the natural ingredients of the skin emulsion.
These are, for example:
Shea butter
55% stearic acid. The fruit of the shea tree is the shea nut, from which shea butter is extracted by pressing. It nourishes sun-damaged skin and increases the skin’s defence against UV radiation.
Macadamia oil
65% stearic acid and 10% palmitoleic acid.
Macadamia oil is easily absorbed by the skin. It is very similar to the natural sebum component of the skin. It softens and moisturizes the skin, but does not make it greasy.
Primrose oil
High content of gamma-linolenic acid. In many people, the phase of skin metabolism when gamma-linolenic acid is formed is not good, which can cause atopic dermatitis. Cares for dry, rough, cracked skin. It has a strong moisturizing effect. It speeds up blood circulation.
Jojoba oil
It’s not actually oil. It is 97% wax and wax esters. Liquid wax with nourishing and healing properties. Jojoba oil can be used to replace the missing oils caused by the insufficient functioning of the sebaceous glands.
Pomegranate seed oil, sesame oil, and argan oil all belong here.
If our face cream is rich in such oils, then we can talk about natural skin care.
It should be known that if we only use the above oils, we may not achieve the effect we want. This is because there are two types of fat deficiency in the skin: sebum deficiency and sebum deficiency. And it doesn’t matter which one we replace.
The minus first level is EPIDERMIS.
In Greek, EPI means „above” and DERMIS means „skin”. So the epidermis, the top layer of the skin. The main task of this layer is to protect us from intruders. From all kinds of pathogens, chemicals, poisons, allergens and various mechanical effects.
What does this skin barrier look like? The epidermis + the skin surface emulsion (hydrolipid layer) together form the skin barrier, i.e. the protective barrier.
Skin problems are always due to damage to the barrier layer. Therefore, it is very important to restore the skin surface emulsion. Because if the topmost layer is in order, the layer below is also in order. If the topmost layer is in a deficient state, there is no adequate protection, and the layer below is also damaged.
The Epidermis consists of 5 layers, of which the most important is the bottom, the Basale layer, where new cells are born and move towards the surface of the skin. This journey takes 28 days for skin cells or 50-56 days over the age of 50. The new skin cell produces all the substances that the skin surface emulsion needs. So enough fats/oils, moisture, ceramide. When it reaches the surface of the skin, it releases these substances into the space outside the cell, and after completing its task, the cell dies. It becomes a flattened corneum. These dead keratin cells protect the skin from external harmful effects as a protective layer for a while. When the water content of the cells drops below 10%, they detach from the skin surface. This is the process of exfoliation.
If the Hydrolipid layer + Epidermis is fine, the layer below it also works well.
DERMIS
This layer contains blood vessels, nerves, hair follicles, sebaceous glands and mass of connective tissues called collagen and elastin. Collagen and elastin give skin its strength and youthful elasticity.
SUBCUTIS
This layer contains sweat glands, blood vessels and fat. This fat gives the skin its natural plumpness.
It is made up of loose connective tissue and fat cells that protect our internal organs. Collagen is a protein that makes up 70% of the building blocks within our skin. The cells that produce collagen fibres called fibroblasts become less active with age.